Scientific research

Project carried out on behalf of ICCO (the International Cocoa Organization).

The definition of fine or flavour cocoa remains controversial as there is no single universally-accepted criterion that could be adopted as a basis for determining whether or not cocoa of a given origin is to be classified as fine or flavour cocoa. Relevant criteria include the genetic origin of planting material, morphological characteristics of the plant, flavour characteristics of cocoa beans produced, chemical characteristics of cocoa beans, colour of the cocoa beans and nibs, degree of fermentation, drying, acidity and off-flavours. Points are awarded or subtracted by the quality assessors, depending on the condition of the cocoa beans in relation to the above criteria. However, the measurement of these criteria does not reflect objectively the cocoa quality in terms of taste or flavour, causing chocolate manufacturers problems in standardizing their products. This difficulty is shared also by traders on the international market, who base their decisions mainly on the degree of fermentation and genetic origin of cocoa.

The main objective of this project was to develop the capacity of all involved in the cocoa sector to adequately differentiate between fine and bulk cocoa, thus improving the marketing position of fine or flavour cocoa. The specific objectives of the project were to establish physical, chemical and organoleptic parameters enabling the evaluation of cocoa quality in relation to genotype and environment, and to disseminate selected parameters, methodologies, standards and instruments to be used in the evaluation of cocoa quality.

Project implementation started in January 2001 and was carried out in Ecuador, Trinidad and Tobago, Papua New Guinea and Venezuela. The final project evaluation workshop was held in Guayaquil, Ecuador, in April 2006.

The results of the project clearly indicated that the physical parameters measured had proved to be inconclusive in differentiating fine from bulk cocoas. On the other hand, the theobromine/caffeine ratio had proved to be a clear indicator in differentiating fine cocoa from bulk cocoa. However, this ratio could not differentiate qualities of expected flavour profiles, although aromatic profiles were promising indicators in achieving both origin and flavour qualities differentiation. It was further demonstrated that all fine or flavour cocoa samples differed clearly in their organoleptic parameters from the Ghana bulk cocoa which was used as a reference. The project produced a spectrum of unique sensorial attributes for samples from each fine cocoa producing country that had participated in the project, concluding that the countries were not competing against each other but satisfied different flavour niche markets.

Related study:

Sukha, D.A.; Butler, D.R.; Umaharan, P.; Boult, E. (2007)
The use of an optimised organoleptic assessment protocol to describe and quantify different flavour attributes of cocoa liquors made from Ghana and Trinitario beans